CASK 'N FLAGON
Better baseball bites
by Patrick Main
The "official" first day of spring has already passed, but every good citizen of Red Sox Nation knows real seasons are marked by changes in the sports calendar.
That means summer kicks off 'round these parts on April 4th, when the Evil Empire, fresh off a purchased World Series championship, rolls into Fenway Park for opening day.
While I wouldn't change Boston's baseball cathedral for anything in the world, the Aramark grub they sling leaves plenty to be desired. Thankfully, Fenway's right in the heart of the city, so there are plenty of noshing options. None are closer, or better equipped for your pre-gaming needs, than the Cask 'n Flagon – ESPN's Top Baseball Bar in the Nation – and they've revamped their menu just in time for spring.
I managed to sneak in some March Madness on their 60 plasma TVs (before the season starts in earnest and the place is swarmed) to test out the kitchen's newest inventions. Leading off (after the beers, of course: Leinenkugel Sunset Wheat, Sam Adams Noble Pils and Harpoon IPA – all $5.75 each) were pork drumsticks ($5) and "mango chicken moonshots" (basically chili chicken fingers, $8.99). The pork drumsticks, despite being described as "pulled pork," were deep-fried bone-in ribs, smothered in a heavy, sweet barbecue sauce and covered with fried onion strings. The ribs were extremely meaty (the pork pulled away easily from the bone), and the onion strings were great for sopping up the extra sauce. The chicken fingers came with a superb sauce; the heat of the chili balanced out the chunks of fresh mango, and was topped with "sexy scallions," which, despite my wishes, weren't terribly seductive.
But those were just warm-ups. For the heart of the lineup: the potent combination of the Fenway burger ($9.99), the grilled chicken pita ($9.99) and the taco chicken salad ($12.99). Ignore the Fenway burger's name. Cooked medium rare, this 10-ounce sirloin patty topped with cheddar and applewood bacon bears no resemblance to anything they serve in the park. The bun was hearty and absorbed the burger's juiciness – it would lay down a good base for those $7+ beers. My grilled chicken pita was a large wrap stuffed with marinated chicken breast, herbed cheese, tomato, onion, bacon and mixed greens. Delicious and surprisingly filling, it definitely cleaned up. The huge taco salad was served in a delicate yet crunchy house-made tortilla bowl, and was loaded with juicy bits of chicken (white and dark meat, an unexpected bonus), mixed greens, fresh cheese, tasty beans and spicy salsa. Flavorful to the last bite, this is a man-salad worthy of any pre-game ritual.
We beat a hasty retreat before the bottom of the lineup had a chance, but we'll be back all season long to try those pine riders.
Rating: ***
***** Grand slam
**** Home run
*** Fly ball
** Foul ball
* Steeerike!
